Once known as the kingdom of Lan Xang, or in English, “the land of a million elephants”, Laos is, like its elephants, beguiling, charming, fascinating and enchanting.
This is the fourth of five stories about Laos, a stirringly beautiful country that captured my heart. This one describes our experiences in Luang Prabang
Once the capital of the age-old Luang Prabang Province and awarded UNESCO World Heritage protection in 1995, the picturesque city of Luang Prabang is situated in a valley at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. It is renowned for its ancient temples, an alluring fusion of Laotian/French Colonial architecture, dramatic scenery, interesting food, beautiful people, and breathtaking sunsets.
Chaos at Luang Prabang Railway Station
These attractions and more piqued our curiosity about visiting this far-flung place. But when we emerged from our comfortably cocooned, two-hour, high-speed train ride, we were strangely disoriented.
Our departure point from Vientiane (the capital of Laos) provided near military efficiency and organisation. In comparison, when we arrived at Luang Prabang, we were greeted by a scene of heat, dust, and chaos when exiting the station. Stepping into this pandemonium, squinting into the glaring sun, we searched for a taxi.
While adjusting to the view of dust-covered vehicles taking off in the misty distance, bumping across potholed roads to oblivion overtook my usually sane thinking. I watched admiringly as chattering, young, carefree backpackers blithely piled into dirt-covered transit vans, perching themselves on tiny bench seats before roaring off into clouds of red soil.
A tug of my bag handle brought me back to my senses. Glancing down, I saw a tiny man flashing a broad grin. In a quiet voice, he offered to taxi us to the Luang Prabang centre. His serenity and sweetness made my heart melt, and the price for the 30-minute ride was ridiculously cheap.
So, without hesitation and with some relief, we climbed into his red (dust-covered) late model Ute. Relaxing into the comfortable and clean back seat, we took off after that convoy of transit vans. Before we knew it, we, too, were journeying through billows of dirt as we rolled towards and away from each other, bouncing over potholes. But as it happened, I needn’t have worried; the driver confidently navigated the windy, bumpy roads to our destination. And although slightly bewildered when we arrived, we were none the worse for wear.
Once settled, we followed the taxi driver’s directions to the town centre, searching for somewhere to eat and looking forward to a relaxing drink. As we strolled towards the river edge, ducking under overhanging Rattan and Liana trees, we were mesmerised by the tranquillity and beauty of the Mighty Mekong River. There it was, front and centre, bathed in a palette of sunset colours, looking majestic.
It didn’t take long to feel very much at peace.
Searching for a welcoming place, we soon settled at a dinky little ramshackle shed restyled into a casual bar/restaurant on a wooden platform stretching over the water. Dropping ourselves into small wooden chairs around a rickety table, we stared into the beautiful sunset across Southeast Asia’s largest river. This part of Laos is world-renowned for its spectacular sunset views, and we were not disappointed.
While we immersed ourselves in this unforgettable experience, people converged from all directions like bees to a honeypot and landed on or near the pontoon. Armed with their phones, they busily snapped photos as the enormous orange sun, splashing its soft red and golden hues across the horizon of the glass-flat Mekong, sank slowly out of sight. Amongst the crowd, the sense of togetherness experienced was palpable.
While engrossed in the views, we were served our meal. Warm, sticky white rice, local river fish with freshwater spinach and drinks (a G n T apiece) were swiftly placed on the table by a non-English-speaking, very friendly “barman/owner.”
Earlier, He had quietly, as if not wanting to interrupt our reverie, taken our orders, pointing at fellow diners’ glasses to see what size drink we wanted and then at the menu containing some words that made enough sense for us to point back at what we thought we wanted to eat. All for the grand price of around NZ$20 each. The food was delicious, and the drinks went down a treat. The atmosphere and views – priceless.
Tips for Travelling in Laos
- Carry US dollars. They are legal tender in Laos. Change is given in the local currency, Lao Kip.
- Cash machines are available but not plentiful. When you see one, use it.
- Tuk-tuks are cheap and always available.
- Food (freshly cooked and delicious) is on average NZ$6-10 per dish.
- Wine – especially white wine is not plentiful except for Sauvignon Blanc.
The following four days in Luang Prabang unfolded like an enchanting fairy tale.
We frequented local side streets where everyday life unfolded. We saw abundant herb gardens, pets (roosters, dogs, and cats), little children wandering, and bicycles and motorbikes leaning against fences or parked on roadsides. Enjoying the unmistakable sense of tranquillity and peace, we took our time, pausing to absorb and admire the beauty and lushness of the surrounding trees and vegetation, as well as the architecturally charming houses, temples, and businesses.
So, it is for these and the following reasons, as described on the Luang Prabang Tourism website and paraphrased below, that Luang Prabang has been awarded UNESCO Heritage Site status.
- exceptional fusion of architecture
- combination of structures and
- remarkably well-preserved townscape
As we continued to explore this delightful town, and because we felt utterly safe and cared for by the gentle, quiet, peaceful locals, I frequently asked myself, “Is this gentleness and serenity due to the commonly practised Theravada Buddhism”? (The majority religion in Laos). And as if to answer my question, Buddhist monks quietly appeared and disappeared, their saffron gowns floating as they perambulated through the streets, the markets and in and out of the many temples dotted throughout this lovely town. Their aura added to the sense of “zen”.
But Luang Prabang’s ambience is not the only special aspect; the cuisine is also noteworthy.
Whether it’s cooked on a street corner, lit by hanging naked bulbs, from a scorchingly hot BBQ plate; (we ate delicious chargrilled chicken kebabs), or from the magnificent night markets where we enjoyed more fresh river fish served on various rice and noodle dishes, accompanied by an (optional) Laotian spicy sauce, or, at a sweet little café tucked inside an alleyway, illuminated with bamboo lanterns the gastronomical experience in Luang Prabang was never disappointing.
The Night Food Markets
Some yum Street Food A day market at the entrance of the Kuang Si Falls Some more yum Street Food
“Laotian cooking only really makes sense if you have a big basket of freshly steamed sticky rice to eat it with”. Ewen Bell – Food and Travel review in March 2022.
To expand on Ewen’s culinary opinion, though, we also sipped local “French drip” coffee every morning at a neighbouring café and, with the evocation of the French connection, occasionally enjoyed scrummy pastries and freshly baked gateau. Our daily menu also included an array of fresh local fruits: Dragon Fruit, Bananas, and Mangoes, to name a few.
When it came to enjoying a drink, I learnt to relish shandies. We laughed with the locals when acquainting them with what must have seemed a peculiar recipe. I was often served the Laotian version, consisting of an unopened bottle of beer (with an accompanying bottle opener), a new can of Sprite, and a glass, and I was charged for one drink only!
Sightseeing in the Luang Prabang Village
Every day, to burn off calories but mostly to absorb the neighbourhood, we strolled the 20-minute walk along Sakkaline Road, the main road of the old town of Luang Prabang. Dotted with beautiful and interesting artisan shops (selling exquisite homemade wares at very low prices), cafés, and restaurants, the road is a visitor’s “Aladdin’s Cave.” And being housed in beautifully preserved French colonial-style low-rise plaster and timber structures only enhances their charm.
Busy Sakkaline Road
Every day we were treated to the sight of the blazing red, pink, and purple bougainvillaea’s drooping heavily over steep-pitched shingled roofs sheltering wooden verandas’ and the pedestrians ambling below under the overhanging slated awnings.
Adding to the picture-perfect views, the roadsides are lined with neatly parked shiny motorbikes of all descriptions and ubiquitous Tuk Tuks’, presented as if plucked from a child’s picture book’ dazzlingly bright and shiny with their enamelled multi-coloured bodies.
In the evenings, as the sun finished its day and dropped behind the horizon of the omnipresent Mekong, the streets transformed into night markets. We wandered along cobblestoned walkways and roads, fossicking through locally made clothes, jewellery, and handbags, while enjoying the gastronomic sights of more freshly prepared goodies. Finally, a delicious morsel served on a coconut palm leaf was gently handed to me to nibble on as we returned to the hotel. Sadly, we were leaving in the morning.
Final thoughts on Luang Prabang
The following day, we travelled south to Vang Vieng. Upon our departure on the LCR train, the following thoughts about the alluring charm of Luang Prabang will forever remain.
Populated by approximately 56,000 people, Luang Prabang sits prettily in a scenic green valley surrounded by dramatic jungle-clad mountains and two living rivers. The local people are quietly spoken, gracious, and gentle.
Or as Hanya Yanagihara writes in his Conde Nast travel piece “Why Luang Prabang Is the Ideal Southeast Asian City,” they are a “people of equanimity and grace” moving slowly and gently through their abiding, otherworldly, mystical land. Couldn’t have put it better myself!
To read more about Laos – click below:
And if you’d like to read even more about Luang Prabang, please click the links below:
If you would like to know more about this story or any other story published on Mytravelroom, please get in touch with me at janeco@mytravelroom.co.nz
