In New Zealand, it was the first long weekend after a wet and cold winter – signalling summer was on the horizon. So we took the opportunity for a classic Kiwi break.
We chose to head to Tairua – a small Coromandel settlement of around 1600 people, on the east coast of the renowned peninsula, which offers a variety of activities and opportunities or to do nothing but relax.
The following are some of the attractions on offer at this undemanding beachside destination.
1. Various interesting and dramatic topographical views
2. Various outdoor activities – walking, swimming, hiking, sightseeing, group gatherings, to name a few. And for golf nuts, there’s a great 18-hole Golf Course.
3. Various eating options
and a
4. Variety of wee shops.
Arriving mid-afternoon on Friday, we were grateful to be greeted with warm, balmy, windless weather. Yay, I thought we’re in for a pre-summer, summer weekend. Good practice for the real thing, I thought as we drove up the curly little bermless, narrow road that hugs the channel shoreline, to our digs for the next four nights.
Our accommodation was a slightly rundown and dated establishment Paku Lodge Resort, on the Paku Hill side of the bay. The “For Sale” signs placed strategically at the front of the property explained the lack of TLC, but nonetheless, it was a comfortable, easy place to lay our heads.
Within an easy walk’s distance to a charming cafe (The Old Mill Waterfront Cafe), a Fishing Club (Tairua Pauanui Fishing Club) and a delightful wee restaurant tucked in against the base of Paku (Tairua Beach Club), perched with views out to sea. We also had spectacular, ambient views from our spacious room, across the channel to Pauanui Beach and to the western side of pretty Tairua.
We could enjoy looking out to the native bush (tons of it), the dramatic and eye-catching Coromandel ranges looming large as a backdrop, taking on all the moods of the (as it transpired) changeable weather. Bird song, miniature waves landing with gentle swishes onto the shoreline, picturesque boats of all types and a swing under a close-by Pohutukawa tree, sitting on the calm channel shoreline.
Walking is easy around Tairua – apart from Paku Hill. Yes, we did make the 10-minute, relatively steep climb up to the summit after a late night. Which made us feel more virtuous despite our chosen holiday activities – drinking, eating and revelling with family. So getting around only requires willingness and shoes that will stand a day of constant use.
Short drives too, are a realistic option for sightseeing, and it doesn’t take long before your car takes you through thick native bush fringing the windy country roads, providing frequent peeks of the beautiful coastline, golden sands and sparkling blue seas.
There is also a country pub – The Coroglen Tavern. This rustic local establishment does a mean (real) beef hamburger, fries and accompanying Corona beer. Sometimes live music is part of the scene, but this time we sat outside on the covered verandah and enjoyed the simple pleasure of watching the world go by.
The scene across the road to the neighbouring farm revealed lush green grass, contented cows and sheep mooching and chewing, beautiful oak trees and other deciduous species providing animal shelter, all accompanied by the orchestra of crickets and cicadas competing to be heard in their summer chorus.
Back in town and little Tairua is humming with visitors, so booking a table for dinner (and breakfast the next day) was imperative. We had pizzas at Manaia – a local fav. The vibe is casual, relaxed and happy. They cater for large groups and small gatherings. The pizzas were delicious, fresh with generous coverings of mozzarella, seafood or alternatively vegetarian or meat lovers’ options. Service was slick and helpful with lots of smiles and laughs from the (run off their feet) staff.
We also enjoyed another evening meal at Manaia and, juxtaposed with the previous night, which was loud, fun and chatty, this was low-key quiet and candlelit. We both had fresh, locally caught seafood. He, a chowder. Me, fresh pan-fried gurnard with salad. There’s a great wine list, too.
No long weekend is complete without a touch of shopping, and because everything is neighbouring in the Tairua village, it’s easy to amble from breakfast, to a couple of very cool art galleries, to a clothing shop with a range of natural fabric dresses, shorts and summer prep stuff.
Then lunch, at the outdoor market, which, although not huge, provided some good opportunities, if looking for an interesting something to buy. Otherwise, take a 3-minute stroll further north to the variety of caravan food and a delightful bakery offering some very scrumptious eats.
We tried the Thai food from a lively food truck spot, run by two highly professional young women who cooked a delicious chicken fried rice meal for me. It was $23 and well worth it.
Everywhere you go in Tairua is fringed by views of expansive ocean over the break to the ocean or the delightful harbour and channel beaches offering safe, calm swimming and plentiful sandy sitting places. There is also a children’s playground shaded by many grand ol’ pohutukawas under which parents and grandparents can sit to enjoy some time out.
Despite the weather turning after a day of sunshine (it was Labour Weekend after all – and changeable, unpredictable Spring), there is plenty to do, even if it means hopping in the car and taking a day out to go sightseeing.
Then you could end up sitting in a self-dug hot pool of water at Hahai beach, or, as we did, taking an hour or so to enjoy the peace and tranquillity of a 25-minute drive through the native bush to a wee country pub that asks nothing of you except to relax.
So, if you’re looking for an easy, undemanding few days away, Tairua is definitely worth visiting.
To read more about Coromandel and Tairua, click here
If you would like to know more about this or any story on this website please contact janeco@mytravelroom.co.nz
