Once known as the kingdom of Lan Xang, or in English, “the land of a million elephants”, Laos is, like its elephants, beguiling, charming, fascinating and enchanting.
This is the second of five stories about Laos, a stirringly beautiful country that captured my heart. It describes our experience in Vientiane, the whimsical capital of Laos.
Vientiane has been the capital since the 16th Century. Today, it provides an exotic mix of modern and ancient. Combine this with a fascinating artisan industry, sophisticated eateries, bars, and lovely walks; it is a city with much to enjoy. Despite its checkered history of invasion by the Siamese and colonisation by the French, it has always remained the capital. And after Laos became independent in the mid-20th Century, it was chosen to remain so.
The trip from the border to our hotel was uneventful, but we were ready to finally reach our destination, eight hours after departing Northern Thailand. When we arrived at the Chandara, the welcome was almost Raj-level. But what struck me most was the gentleness of the staff, how quietly they spoke, and how polite and caring they were. Laotians possess an unusually intrinsic dignity, demonstrated by the direct intent in their manner to look after us. We immediately felt safe and cared for.
Our 5-night stay at the Chandara Boutique Hotel, situated an easy 10-minute tuk-tuk ride from the central city or to the Mekong riverside, and conveniently placed for direct taxi rides to the train station or the international airport, was charming and restful.
Set at the top of a rumpty little laneway, fringed with a picket fence and pathway to the formal portico, we were greeted by the receptionist dressed in traditional Loa costume. He bowed to us and offered us a cold drink in his sweet, almost whispering voice. Once inside, the reception area enveloped us in cool AC and an exotic mix of contemporary Laotian and French colonial furniture, ornaments and art.
Latiice wooden doors and polished tiled floors with dark wood pillars and red velvet-covered sofas, and an open-air tiled passage through to the dark wood-covered verandahed restaurant with a view of the pretty blue tiled in-ground pool.
There wasn’t a soul in sight, but later in the day, the poolside loungers, filigree iron tables, and chairs would no doubt be filled by returning visitors dying for a dip and cool drink after their hot day of exploration.
We were shown to our room, which had an entrance onto another covered verandah, complete with soft cushioned cane lounge chairs, armchairs, and a dark teak coffee tables.
Surrounded by colour, from the bedroom furnishings in blue, red, yellow, and green hues, backdropped with polished golden floors, grass-coloured bamboo walls, and retro wall lighting, to the startling green of the garden plants, the bright light of the sun, and the stark blue of the sky and the warm silence, providing a serenity and sense of peace. This place was more than just a generic hotel; it was heaven. I would have been happy to stay put.
But each day we tuk-tuked into town and enjoyed the many urban offerings of Vientane. Pleasantly surprised by the sophistication of the numerous cafes and restaurants, we regularly enjoyed sitting al-fresco in a local bar/eatery, Khop Chai Deu, ordering lunch, including, among other things, delicious chicken and rice, and healthy fresh salads. Perched on comfy barstools with sturdy wooden tables to dine from, we shaded ourselves under the leafy trees, a perfect place to observe life in the streets of Vientiane.
There were many busy “goings on” along the narrow roads and alleyways, and the cosmopolitan mix of tourists and locals coming and going from the outdoor restaurant provided us with plenty of entertainment. No one seemed in a hurry, and again, peace surrounded us.
Tips when travelling in Laos
- Carry US dollars. They are legal tender in Laos. Change is given in the local currency, Lao Kip.
- Cash machines are available but not plentiful. When you see one, use it.
- Tuk-tuks are cheap and always available.
- Food (freshly cooked and delicious) is on average NZ$6-10 per dish.
- Wine – especially white wine is not plentiful, except for Sauvignon Blanc.
After one particularly long lunch under the Padauk trees, we headed to a shop I had read about. It is a local cooperative of women that supports rural women and assists them in making a living with their wares, called Her Works.
Found in a quaint little side street strung with cane lanterns and boasting an enchanting garden complete with a miniature concrete asian house and greenest of green bonsais and other plants, “Her Works” is a beautifully appointed shop.
Decked out in modern bright white and pale grey decor and interesting features like a wall of cream-coloured linen-covered disks connecting the ground floor with the second floor. And a sweet little wooden attic staircase that takes customers up to a space stocked with locally made natural fabric (linen and cotton) clothing, handbags, carry bags, jewellery and artisan goodies such as perfectly fired pottery dishes and bowls, wooden utensils, and a vast array of other gifts and delights. Downstairs are rows of beautifully crafted shoes – flats, espadrilles, canvas, patterned and plain, leather – you name it.
So, if you happen to be in Vientiane and want to kit yourself out and are keen to help local industry, this shop is highly recommended. Every item is reasonably priced, and a card with the provenance of the item is provided for posterity.
Vientiane is also a great city to walk. The main street, Rue Setthathilath, has most cafes and restaurants. Still, the little offshoot streets and alleyways take you to charming and unexpected treats, such as tiny artisan shops selling beautiful hand-turned wooden dishes and home-woven rugs, blankets, and wraps.
And of course, no visit to Vientiane is complete without spending an evening strolling the enormous night markets, checking out the vast array of goodies, souvenirs and mementoes for sale. Situated on the banks of the Mekong, it opens at sunset and closes around 10 pm. Be prepared to be impressed by the shere scale of the place.
So catch a tuk-tuk or taxi to the riverside, walk the length and back, fossicking for interesting purchases. After exhausting yourself from shopping, find a place to enjoy a drink or dinner, sitting on the tranquil riverbanks and looking towards the sparkling, distant night lights of Thailand on the other side.
Fun Fact: The border between Thailand and Laos runs through the middle of the river.
Another Fun Fact: We were provided with COMPLIMENTARY water bottles wherever we went.
MTR Stayed: Chandara Boutique Hotel – Asean Road, Vientiane. A double (very spacious) room was around US$50p/n – It comes highly recommended.
To read more about Laos – click below:
If you would like to know more about this or any other story on the Mytravelroom website, don’t hesitate to get in touch with me – janeco@mytravelroom.co.nz
