Here’s A Guide To A One-Day Tiki Tour of Some of State Highway 35. The iconic “East Coast Route” of New Zealand
During a recent road trip, we took a day to travel part of State Highway 35, popping into small coastal beaches and settlements along the way. This story covers the 45 kilometres of coastal road between Gisborne and Tolaga Bay.
Starting in Gisborne, the “capital” of the famed East Coast region of the North Island, New Zealand, is, apart from being the first place in the world to see the sun, the most populous area in New Zealand for Maori. Because of this, many of the small bays and intriguing villages along the coast possess a deeply embedded Maori culture that abides in the food, the art, the scenery, the language and more. These are some of the reasons people love visiting.
People also enjoy Gisborne’s colonial history. Captain James Cook and his crew aboard HMS Endeavour arrived in New Zealand on October 6th, 1769. They landed on Kaiti Beach by the mouth of the Turanganui River, the convergence of the Waimata and Taruheru Rivers. Thus began his exploration of the New Zealand coastline and early colonial settlement. As a reminder of his contribution to “discovering” Gisborne, his magnificent statue stands prominently in the reserve behind his landing point, in the central part of town, portside.
Kaiti Beach is also the first landing site of the Horouta waka, which brought the ancestors of tangata whenua to the shores of Gisborne.
In modern times, Gisborne enjoys the fruits of its world-famous horticulture: wine, grapes, citrus, and apples. And aside from Kaiti Beach, the most historic beach in New Zealand, Gisborne is also graced with an assortment of beautiful white sand beaches up and down its coastline, such as Wanui, famous for its surf, and Waikanae, which boasts golden sands and gentle waves.
To add to its attractions, the central city has been built to include an array of magnificent mixed architecture and a variety of good-quality cafes and restaurants around the outskirts.
One of which is Tahu, a restaurant in one of the best positions in town, right on Midway Beach, where we stopped for lunch. From the interesting and comprehensive menu, we enjoyed deliciously fresh Tarakihi, salad, chips and homemade seafood chowder, washed down with a juicy gewurztraminer. (The wine list is the best I’ve seen at a restaurant in a long time.) With floor-to-ceiling glass doors and windows, everyone inside or out can enjoy the views of frothy baby waves splashing onto smooth light sands, or, like we did, see a local or two riding their horses along the shoreline.
Lunch enjoyed, it was onward north to Toluga Bay. An approximate 45 kilometre drive, it is renowned for its historically famous wharf, a Category One Heritage NZ Site. Built from sturdy concrete, it stretches 660 metres out to sea and is considered the longest wharf in the southern hemisphere. It is also listed as one of the top 100 sites to visit in New Zealand. Alongside this famous structure is the bay’s stunning sweeping beach with inlets and coves, popular for boat fishing and swimming.
Toluga Bay welcomes visitors all year round, but its popularity in the “high” season is evident by the number of campers in vans and tents populating the small, quaint township. In summer, especially, the well-appointed campground splits at the seams.
Turning back to the south, we stopped in at Whangara Beach. Home to where the world-famous movie “Whale Rider” was filmed. This beach is strikingly beautiful. Facing the open sea, the shoreline curves in a wide semicircle embracing the open space of the Pacific Ocean. The local marae, Whitireia and the red brick historic Patoromu (Anglican) village church, coupled with the many whare housing local iwi, evoke a deep sense of history and roots in this small piece of the East Coast.
Unfortunately, visitors are not welcome here. However, on the roadside, there are some perfect spots to stop and take photos of this picturesque and historic piece of Aotearoa.
Returning to our base (more on that later), we call into Waihau Beach, the closest beach to our host home.
Down a windy unsealed road lies an established village of substantial homes and baches fringing this wild and seemingly untouched part of the coastline. Also steeped in local Maori history, there are bush walks, beach ambling, and swimming to be had. A sweeping stretch of pinky sand and bluest of blue seas, you can see for miles. I imagine the sunrises this east-facing piece of paradise must offer – the first place in the world to see a new day.
Back to what felt like “home” – our accommodation, Tidal Waters, is off the beaten track – an easy 35-minute drive north of Gisborne. It comprises a large handmade (beautifully), log Lodge, including a self-contained unit and six bedrooms on sweeping farm land elevated at least 100 feet above the Pacific Ocean. Tidal Waters provides comfort and peace for those looking to retreat from their “real” world. An excellent place for any gathering.
Cosy with a log fire, many comfortable beds in all various configurations, fully equipped modern kitchen and bathrooms this place is off grid but you wouldnt know it.
Each of us had a king-size bed in a separate bedroom. We three shared a bathroom with a great shower, bath, and separate toilet. Blankets and comfy pillows were plentiful, as were logs for the fire.
The outdoors invites guests to enjoy the 180-degree views of open sea, protected to the west by mountainous hills and native bush. Velvet smooth bright green lawns that would lend themselves to many a happy picnic on warmer days, and a garden filled with a menagerie of endearing animals and pets.
Such as chooks (who cutely put themselves to bed after being fed), fluffy silvery and black pet rabbits and a big white one called Cedric with a lopsided ear, bound around unfenced. A trio of white puddle ducks content in their creek or on their feeding platform, triplet Suffolk sheep all “in lamb”, and also some fenced-in feral deer. You name it! Oh, and not to be forgotten – the family threesome of generational Labrador dogs keeping a wary eye on things while perpetually wagging friendly tails.
Tidal Waters is a great find and highly recommended. (Click the link above to find out more.) A bonus is the down-to-earth, unpretentious, fun and knowledgeable hospitality of the host, Jaye. She should do a “sideline” in road trips on State Highway 35, New Zealand.
If you would like to know more about this story or other Mytravelroom stories please contact me on janeco@mytravelroom.co.nz
JM kindly provided the photo of the Tidal Waters Lodge.
