Once a booming tin mining town until the 1970s. Todays Ipoh has morphed into a busy, vibrant, cultural, culinary, and architectural hub. With a ton of charm. We visited Ipoh in December 2023.
The word “Ipoh” has been a part of my language lexicon since I was a child. It was a town where my parents were living when I was born. I had always wanted to return, to see it through adult eyes and refresh lingering memories. (I was born an hour away in Kamunting, in a British Military hospital), but my first home was Ipoh.
Now the capital city of Perak, a region in the northwest of Malaysia, the “old town” of Ipoh is made up of quaint streets, connecting lanes and alleyways. All adorned with old British colonial-era buildings in various states of repair, personalized colours, murals, Street Art and decorations.
It was Christmas time when we visited so a blow-up Father Christmas swaying precariously from the side of a verandah wasn’t so surprising, but still brought a surprised smile to our faces.
Every alleyway and lane, decorated with paper lanterns, or colourful umbrellas strung across their width, invites you in. We felt as if we were journeying along magical pathways. The streets are dotted with little shops selling a multitude of wares, and delightfully elegant and fragile watercolour murals celebrating Ipoh’s fascinating history, painted on walls and doorways. Look up and you may spot a Paper Mache “dragon monster”, brightly painted head, large eyes staring into mid air, shiny frilly collar setting off the look, bobbing in the warm breeze.
Also housed in many of the aged buildings in the “old town” streets are interesting shops, cafes and restaurants. Lots of them decorating their entranceways with ancient bicycle’s, old farm carts or contemporary sculptures placed in random nooks’ and crannies. And because Ipoh’s city centre is compact, it is very walkable.
We had fun finding our way around on foot and discovering unexpected delights such as “Gabrielle”. A charming French influence Patisserie. We ordered a morning coffee and enormous mouth-watering piece of Japanese (with French influence), mille crepe cake, served by a young Muslim woman in her full black hijab. We soaked up the visual beauty and the array of delicious goodies on display, the old repurposed brick walls, colourful leadlight hanging lamps and a beautifully curated sign advertising their name.
Opting to break the time between sightseeing and meals we took a walk along the pretty, peaceful Kinta River flowing through Ipoh. It was a quiet and tranquil hour-long stroll under shading trees, with river reeds and wafty flowers bordering the riverside. We even spotted a little boy and his mother quietly fishing together in the dappled light.
Later in the day we discovered a funky wee bar/ restaurant where we enjoyed (ice bucket provided), a beautiful bottle of white and ice cold beers. I devoured the most delicious beef Rendang curry. And to embellish the experience, the service was superb! Visit Tiga Bar.
Apart from being enhanced by some beautiful architecture, (stark white, domed, beautifully built Islamic buildings, Hakka Clubs and British Colonial-era structures) , Ipoh is framed by a vision of majestic mountain ranges and dramatic limestone hills, snowcapped in December.
I was awestruck by this view upon our arrival and as we departed. And I knew it would be an enduring memory of my odyssey to my first home. Ipoh.
