I have just returned from Auckland again; this time, I was attending the Auckland Writers Festival. But that’s not all. Because I had the luxury of picking and choosing the sessions I wanted to participate in, I had some unplanned downtime for most of one day, allowing me to enjoy other aspects of Auckland Central City.
Read on.
In my opinion, Auckland receives a lot of unfair “press”, such as casual throw away insults like referring to Aucklanders as JAFAs and being generally poo poo’ed for its exisitence by more prochial parts of the country.
To me, Auckland is an international-standard cosmopolitan city offering a lot to its visitors and locals. Not only that, but Auckland is my spiritual home. So, this article is written with some bias.
I have written about Auckland before, but that article focused on a weekend away in greater Auckland. This article, instead, covers my self-guided tour of the CBD on foot during some snatched free time in one day.
I am constantly perplexed by the city’s low-key, almost uncelebrated history – expressed in a straightforward context via its numerous historically varied buildings and structures, its street art, its natural beauty, the many well-thought-out green areas, and its closeness to the sea, which provides constant and welcome views of water, yacht sails, and, of course, the iconic harbour bridge.
So, at this autumnal time of year, with footpaths scattered in gold, red, and brown leaves crunching underfoot and gathering in piles against concrete road and footpath corners, off I went wandering Auckland’s central and eastern city, as far as the waterside to the north. Typical of particularly pleasant Autumn weather, I was lucky to be accompanied by a feathery light breeze and a not-yet-watery sun.
Starting with an easy, steep stroll to Upper Queen Street, I was intrigued by the Old World charm of the colonial-era shops known as the “Terrace of Shops” running down the southeastern side directly opposite Myers Park. Standing and gazing at the Historic Places weatherboard, deep terracotta, and green canopied buildings from under an old oak tree shedding its summer dress of leaves onto the bumpy concrete footpath was an exercise in nostalgia. Some of these shops are still open for business, allowing an impression of the past to be in the present. And during my silent musings, a feeling of peace came over me. Was it because the continuity of life carries on via the structures preserved for perpetuity, offering a sense of permanence for humankind?
Heading into upper mid-city, I walked east up Wellesley Street, and up, up, upwards to Albert Park. I refer to this park as Auckland’s answer to Central Park. It is a beautiful and historically fascinating park, but most importantly, a peaceful oasis in an otherwise busy, bustling city. Encompassing around six hectares of land, it was once a village named Rangipuka, and then later, during the NZ Wars, fortification barracks were built.
Today it is a respite spot popular with the university students (Auckland University campus is directly across the road on the Eastern side of the park), lunch goers, lovebirds and exercisers. Walk up the steep concrete steps or around the sealed pathway that circumvents the park. There are elegant benches and grassy areas to sit and enjoy some time out, or for the more historically minded, an amble around the Victorian formal garden complete with a cast iron fountain imported from Britian in 1881, a bronze statue of Queen Victoria, a stone statue of Governor Grey and plentiful pretty flower beds blooming with Dragon Snaps. My favourite aspects were the grand old Pohutukawa trees and now nearly bare Oaks. Adding to Albert Park’s essential tranquillity.
Following is a gallery of Street Art, Laneways and other beautiful historic buildings, as well as some eats I enjoyed in the CBD of Auckland, along the way.
Descending down the steep concrete steps into midtown, I entered Freyburg Place. I love this part of Auckland city. It offers a sense of “hopping off the ride” for a while. If you walk any of the small side streets, such as High Street, or find yourself navigating Vulcan Lane upwards, and in need of a breather, this spot is a great landing platform between the eastern side of the city and the western side of Queen Street.
Open and sunny with grand sheltering palm trees, it has been modernised to include architecturally very clever wooden platforms that double up as steps and seats. A small shallow pool with water trickling into it from small rock walls adds to the sense of serenity. For those wanting some lunchtime company or visitors looking to enjoy local music, colourful chairs and tables are dotted around the small courtyard, outside the Ellen Melville Community Centre, which, on this particular day, was hosting a three-piece band belting out some absolute bangers in the midday sun.
The small square is fringed by the city’s legal chambers and offices, which are housed in iconic buildings such as the Chancery Chambers at the intersection of Chancery and O’Connell Streets.
Onwards north up Fort Lane, adorned with high brick and stone multi-story walls providing atmospheric backdrops to some great street art, onto Britomart. Once a source of control during the NZ Wars, then in the mid to late 19th century, the centre of trade for the city, to the present day where the precint offers a well thought out very user friendly mix of high end shopping, cafes, restaurants, laneways, weekend markets and a ton of atmospheric and environmentally friendly outdoor seating and recerational spaces. Anyone and everyone is treated to a beautifully restored mix of old brick warehouses and modern high and low-rise glass and steel structures. It also boasts New Zealand’s first Five Green Star Hotel.
Auckland, take a bow for this innovative, thoughtful and beautiful expansion to your growing city.
Britomart is one street back from the waterfront, but time was running out. So I skirted west down Customs Street and headed south up Albert Street to the hotel to change, readying myself for another absorbing session listening to fascinating stories from super-talented writers.
I glanced right as I reached the corner of Victoria and Albert Streets. There, I was reminded nostalgically that on the opposite side of the street, the newly bright burnished-orange old brewing house was once, in the roaring 1980s, before the ’87 crash, the proud, more discreet pale terracotta premises of one of Auckland’s finest restaurants: The Snooty Fox.
“The Snooty Fox”
MTR Tips for walking in Auckland
- Be prepared to handle construction on some road corners and in buildings. This is a city amid major infrastructure updates and modernisation. This doesnt detract form the fun and ease of walking the city .
- Planning to walk your dog in Albert Park? Pooches must be on a lead.
Accommodation: Mytravelroom stayed at Airedale Scenic Hotel. Ideally situated for Town Hall, Aotea Centre and Civic Centre activities. Licensed restaurant and bar. Breakfast available. Five Star staff. Highly recommended.
If you would like more information on visiting Auckland City please contact me on janeco@mytravelroom.co.nz
