Travelling Cambodia – And then there’s Siem Reap

A small city of approximately, 250,000 people, Siem Reap is split into two halves by the Siem Reap River travelling through the middle of the delightful town. The river was created by the ancient kings of the Khmer empire to provide water to the city. Today, the river and the city centre are encircled by leafy trees strung throughout with delicate cane and pretty paper lanterns.

After our long, dusty, thoroughly memorable road trip, Siem Reap exuded calm and tranquility. We felt we had been delivered to a spiritual haven.

It is not such a leap, given that Siem Reap is the gateway to the magnificent Angkor, an exceptionally magnificent spiritual and archaeological site deemed one of the most important in Southeast Asia. A UNESCO site housing the ancient Khmer Kingdom temples of Angkor Wat, the Bayon, Preah Khan and Ta Prohm.

Since no building in Siem Reap is allowed to be taller than Angkor Wat, the temple will always be the highest, most unobscured structure the low-rise city offers.

And because at every turn of a corner and down every tree-lined street, there is a vista of many golden-peaked Buddhist and Hindu temples and Pagodas, open to anyone throughout the day.

Even the traffic of motorbikes, Tuk tuks’ and cars flow easily – like the river ambling through the city.

The river, once an ancient water source is now spanned by numerous short bridges, allowing easy transit between the two quite different sides of the city.

On the northeastern side we enjoyed strolling the Old French Quarter impressed with buildings dressed in Chinese and French Colonial architecture. These elegant, colourful structures now house a multitude of excellent cosmopolitan eateries, bars and shops while providing an ambience of warmth and peace amongst the hustle and bustle of city life.

And across the narrow road we discovered the hectic Old Market which exudes generational history with families running fresh food stalls, and selling every type of consumable and giftware imaginable. We were entertained by cheeky repartee and bartering from the generous hearted, good humoured stall owners as we fossicked our way through the vast choice of offerings.

The Market absorbed us into its alleys and narrow accessways until hours later, we realized we’d trapezed its expanse and popped out once more into the searing outside heat.

On this side of the market, the streets stretch out into more modern, wide-open pedestrian areas fringed with neon lit restaurants and bars that stretch for blocks. We’d entered another world.

The street – officially called “Street 8” or euphemistically “Pub Street”, is strung with colourful lights and neon’s flashing. It is easy to amble by the many restaurants and eateries until a preference is found.

We sat in an open air bar with table service and large menus to peruse, while we watched as dusk fell; as the streets started to fill with patrons and as music started to pump from various premises. With a couple of cocktails (me) and beers (him) aboard we took ourselves away from the growing night time hub bub and headed back towards the river.

On the opposite rivers edge we made our way back to our hotel deciding, as we walked to enjoy a street food dinner by the riverside. We strolled past the various street food stalls and found a small table amongst the many tables and chairs, chock filled with a mix of locals and tourists enjoying the peaceful gentle atmosphere, while waiting for their delicious, cheap eats.

Once again a welcome atmosphere of tranquility and gentleness pervaded through the crowd.

The following day we sought breakfast from a little cafe sheltered under a heavily leafed tree on the (now) southwestern side of the river and spent the gently warm morning visiting art galleries and enjoying the delightful stories of local rural children being funded into art schools.

Stories such as the “Colors of Cambodia Gallery and Art School”. Set up by an American, Bill Gentry, the school (referred to as The River House School),provides village children the opportunity to learn drawing, painting and English at this free school, run by volunteers.

We bought an enchanting watercolour of gracefully swimming “goldfish”. Painted by Thy Channarak- (pictured left, below), and left feeling much rewarded by the beautiful activities quietly happening in this little city and the warmth extended to us during our four very special days in Siem Reap.

Next stop Angkor Wat.

MTR-

Stayed – at the Riversoul Boutique Hotel

Delicious Eats :

Breakfast – at:

Brown Coffee Treeline Street 23 Corner Street Achar Sva, Wat Bo Rd, Village, Siem Reap.

Lunch – On the run – we generally popped into anywhere cool for a cold drink and local fare such as a light curry.

Dinner – at

Elia Greek Kitchen

Romiet Restaurant

Riverside Night Market Food Stalls

Attractions :

The Old Market -Pokambor Ave, Krong Siem Reap

Art Gallery next to Satu Concept Store – featuring Asian inspired portraits such as Christian Develter‘s works who’s exhibition we were lucky enough to see – Pokambor Ave, Krong Siem Reap

Colors of Cambodia Gallery (the River Gallery)

Angkor Wat