Kuang Si Waterfalls are an approximate 45-minute drive south of Luang Prabang. They are situated on the Si River, flowing majestically down 60 metres into the limestone jungle highlands of northern Laos.
Getting there:
Arranging a ride to these famous falls, we lucked in with a transit van and driver all to ourselves. (See “How to Book” -details below.) Usually, the vans are packed with fellow tourists. An added bonus was that the driver offered to stop for any reason during our return trip. (See “Travelling Laos: Highlights of a Road Trip in Luang Prabang”.)
As we hit the road early in the morning, each with a bottle of water, the very competent and friendly driver pointed out the gorgeous views and sights. The journey takes travellers along relatively smooth roads adjacent to the Mighty Mekong, offering magnificent close-up views of the river running under stilted homes and village bridges. The day was sunny, warm and calm, and from the van, we enjoyed unobstructed views of the dramatic beauty of this gorgeous country.


Sights and Scenery:
Along the way, we were entranced at the sight of little dark brown elephants being tended on a tract of land. This elephant camp cares for around 800 orphaned or abandoned elephants. Some were being gently ridden by keepers or tourists holding a silk parasol as they lumbered quietly alongside the road. We slowed to get a closer look and to marvel at these gorgeous animals. And yes, to take photos too.


What to Expect :

Soon after, we arrived at the famous Kuang Si waterfalls and parked in an enormous car park chock-full of identical white transit vans. My first thought was, “Oh no”. I don’t “do” teaming, touristy places. But since we were there, we continued through to the ticket booth, paid our meagre NZ$5 each, and strolled off in the direction of the small market village situated at the bottom of the falls, towards the jungle, with an earthen path carved through the bush that leads to the falls.
Special Experiences to Treasure:
I needn’t have worried. While it was clear that many people were visiting, we didn’t feel crowded. Given the jungle-clothed surroundings with paths that disappeared under ancient canopy trees and the approximately 500 steps to a lookout, we could easily have been almost on our own. The rainforest provided a refreshingly cool temperature, and the crashing waterfalls dominated the soundscape.
It is a beautiful walk, and when the famous falls finally came into sight, the view was wonderous.




It is hard to describe the alluring blues and milky greens of the water, (due to the natural minerals running from the nearby limestone hills), the various browns of rocks and sand, the deep green of the surrounding jungle, the hundreds-of-feet-high canopy of trees filtering twinkling light sparkling on pools and white crests of small waves, as the toppling waters land on rocks, banks and continue to run down through the jungle forming inviting swimming pools. Some were under trees, others placed as if by magic, lonesome among the wilderness of rocks, tree trunks and little bridges. The water was fresh, clean, and cool. I didn’t want to get out.








Our day at Kuang Si was timeless and free. The atmosphere was gentle and safe. As we meandered back to our patiently waiting driver, smiling from ear to ear, we agreed that it was absolutely worth the effort to spend a day feeling like rainforest dwellers, free amongst the trees, surrounded by a magical vista of misty waterfalls crashing onto rocks and spraying nearby overhanging bush, as we played like children in natural pools in the northern jungles of Laos.
Oh, and a special mention – our entrance ticket included a free “look-see” at the WWF-sponsored Bear Sanctuary, located at the start of the walk. The small black bears we saw lounging on tree trunks and chewing on food appeared relaxed and at home near the falls.
MTR Tips:
Take a day pack with:
.Your togs and a towel
.Phone – there are countless photo oppportunities.
.Sunscreen
.Hat
Water and food can be bought from the small market village at the bottom of the falls.
How to book a ride to the falls :
We booked a transit van and driver through a local Luang Prabang tour company,
MTR Recommends – Tripthala All Ticketing Service: tripthala2014@gmail.com
Price: approximately $NZ80 return for 2.
If you would like to know more about travelling in Laos or about this story, please contact me at janeco@mytravelroom.co.nz
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