A scenic trip around Lake Taupo – from town to country – for a night
First Stop
We headed off on a Saturday, first stop: Vine Eatery & Bar in central Taupo for a scrummy lunch – no booking required.
Parked up, we walked in and were immediately welcomed with “Hi guys, how are you today?” gusto.
But it wasn’t just the warm welcome; the menu is great, too. It would make any diner’s mouth water. Add the bonus of a great wine list, a very imaginative cocktail selection that would make many big-city restaurants envious, superb table service, and a glamorous yet rustic, lodge-like ambience. It’s no wonder we keep coming back.
For us, the Tapas took first place by a nose, with pasta a close second. We enjoyed a shared plate of grilled octopus – totally moreish. Then we each ordered a risotto as a main, with a small, freshly baked focaccia.
His: a seared scallop; mine: a mushroom with fresh garden herbs and a rich cheese undertone. Both just so yum. But I’m glad I ordered the small dish. It was more than filling. I paired it with a glass of light, crisp Italian rosé and, for him, a cold Peroni Beer. Can an eatery experience get any better than this?
If you’re in Taupo, Vine Eatery & Bar is highly recommended. Booking for dinner is a good idea.
The Scenic Drive
Now replete and still raving about the food, we hopped back in the car and headed south for a night’s stay at a home on the west side of Lake Taupo in Pukawa.
To drive from Central Taupo to the western side of the biggest lake in the country is approximately one hour – an hour of stunning views and lots of local history and art.
The township of Turangi is a great example. Meandering your way around the southern end of the lake along winding hillside roads with spectacular views of mountains and the crater now filled with water, through several small villages with their own particular charm, you’ll reach Turangi in around 45 minutes.
Drivers can either circumnavigate the township, renowned for its fly-fishing on the Tongariro River and local Māori history, or, if looking for a break, stop at one of the several cafes within the township.
Alternatively, if you, like me, enjoy a good pie, stop at Turangi Bakery, run and owned by Vietnamese who know how to bake delicious, flaky pies in a huge variety. You can sit outside, take in the sights, and enjoy the simple pleasure of a great pie.
At the right time of year, you’ll likely hear a delightful chorus of noisy Tui among the bright yellow flowers of the native Kowhai, a plentiful tree in Turangi.
The Destination
We didn’t stop in Turangi this time. We drove past the turnoff and the Shell Petrol station, turned right onto SH41 at the next junction and followed this winding road inland. We passed the renowned Tookanu natural mineral-rich thermal pools and the Poutu Hydro Dam. We spotted ghostly geothermal vapour rising from the hauntingly beautiful Hipaua Steaming Cliffs as we continued through the rugged, starkly dramatic landscape.
As we approached our destination, Pukawa, we caught glimpses of the western lake’s shiny, calm waters, its shorelines fringed with thick, verdant native vegetation.
Pukawa Country Retreat
Then we arrived at our home for the night, “Pukawa Country Retreat”. A beautifully appointed three-bedroom cottage that sat on picturesque farmland with panoramic views of the lake.
And because it was spring, we were treated to baaing lambs with their long tails and floppy ears bouncing as they trotted towards their mother, a glorious array of spring blooms, and budding trees, all within a property that is not only eye-catching but also incredibly well set up for visitors.
For outdoor entertainment, guests can enjoy a spacious deck furnished with bright-blue Cape Cod chairs, a sitting (or pétanque) pit with a small copper brazier, and a cedar hot tub, set among a red-flowering clematis climbing a rustic fence. All possies facing the lake. And the pièce de résistance: a rotating pedestal outdoor fire that can be turned to face wherever you need heat and ambience!
There is plenty of firewood too!
Additionally, there is a roomy outdoor dining area and patio, with a custom wooden rocking chair looking very proprietorial at the entrance, all surrounded by clear plastic pull-down, fully fitted blinds. Ready for any weather.
Before nightfall, we ambled around the property and introduced ourselves to the two young, pitch-black steers in the paddocks. A very benign pair of animals and, of course, the lambs. This was a skittish experience, with a very protective mother keeping her eye on us. But it’s always a rare treat to be among baby animals in their own environment, surrounded by nature, breathing in the fresh country air.
And in a little unexpected twist, the owners have planted a Manuka honey tree plantation and plan to turn it into a meditation centre. The plantation has long, grassy walkways and little cubby holes among the trees, adding a taste of “Alice in Wonderland” mystery.
And then, of course, there is the lake.
The views are distant, but my eyes keep drifting to the water’s dramatic colours, changing with the hour. And because there wasnt a breath of wind, the water’s calm surface reflected the clouds’ shifting textures and the many colourful surrounding trees, creating a vision of absolute beauty.
And Indoors – A Tranquil Sanctuary
Once inside, we lit the sleek indoor wood burner, which not only looked the part but warmed the living area within minutes. Its comforting flickering flames a welcome sight.
The house has a pretty yet practical kitchen with all the mod cons and large windows overlooking the expansive lake.
Upstairs, two bedrooms are stylishly furnished with high-quality retro and home-renovated wooden furniture, spotlessly put together, plus an open-plan “cinema room” where movies can be projected onto a white wall (with a proper projector). This room features large, comfy sofas and gorgeous rugs. A separate, enormous double-basin bathroom with a huge shower and fluffy white towels hanging on gleaming chrome hangers completes the area. Between them, bookcases, special furniture, and a daybed in a small alcove fill the space. For added comfort and convenience, a pretty wrought-iron table and chairs sit on a small upstairs balcony overlooking the property and the distant water views. What a spot to enjoy a quiet morning coffee!
Downstairs, next to the smaller living area, is a third bedroom with two single beds, a lovely recycled dresser, and an ensuite bathroom.
There is so much room for everyone, and, of course, don’t forget the generous outdoor living spaces that serve as extra living & dining areas in warmer months.
This home offers so much comfort, relaxation, ease of use and a stylish ambience. To top it all off, the total quiet ensured we got a fabulous night’s sleep. Pukawa Country Retreat truly lives up to its name.
MTR stayed courtesy of R & B BachPost Hosts
If you would like to know more about how to book this wonderful getaway please contact me directly on janeco@mytravelroom.co.nz
Additional info: The small cottage on the property is not mentioned in this story as it is for private family use
